Eight days, two cities and countless impressions. Our journey through Cambodia was intense, surprising and touching – and sometimes just hot! We got to know the country at its own pace, moving between temples that are thousands of years old, steaming cookshops and moments of silence. This logbook recounts our encounters, explorations and short breaks day after day. And a little spoiler: We fell in love with this country!
Day 1: Finding our feet in a new place
Today, we fly from Luang Prabang in Laos to Siem Reap. The flight is short and relaxed, and soon we are in the Cambodian heat. A bus takes us from the airport to the centre for about an hour. We experience the slightly crazy but friendly confusion of the Cambodian streets for the first time.
Once we arrive at the bus station, we continue by tuk-tuk. Our driver is called Poly, and he is very friendly and on the same wavelength as us. We exchange numbers – maybe we’ll do our temple tour with him!
Our hotel is small and cute, and very cosy. While Carlo disappears briefly into the 7-Eleven next door, I hop into the shower. After a day of travelling, you need a little break.
Day 2: Art and Khmer charm
The day begins with a mountain of laundry. We drop off almost ten kilos of it. Fortunately, there are always tuk-tuks waiting outside the hotel, so it’s easy to get to the Old Market.
There, we immerse ourselves in the vibrant hustle and bustle of the market, surrounded by fabrics, food and souvenirs. Carlo discovers a sandstone statue which he immediately falls in love with. We then end up at the Little Red Fox Café. It’s stylish, the coffee is great, and the brownie is the icing on the cake.
Next item on the to-do list: The hairdresser! We have to say that the result is impressive. Afterwards, we stroll through the charming and lovingly designed ‘Made in Cambodia Market’.
In the afternoon, we take a short break at the hotel to write to Poly about the temple tour. In the evening, we go out again: first, we eat bao buns (so good!), then we go to Pub Street for a drink, and finally, we stroll around the Night Market. Back at the hotel, we watch a documentary about Angkor Wat – getting ready for tomorrow!
Okay, we are in love with Siem Reap!
Day 3: Temples, sunrise and beads of sweat
The alarm clock rings at 4:30 am – it’s time for the legendary temple tour! Poly is waiting for us outside to take us to the ticket counter. Shortly afterwards, we are standing in front of Angkor Wat, watching the sun slowly rise. Although it’s crowded, the interplay of light over the towers is magical and makes up for everything. The documentary from the previous evening has paid off. We recognise details, understand the history better, and soak up the atmosphere. Not only is Angkor Wat the most famous temple, it also looks like a huge stone history book with endless wall reliefs and an almost supernatural atmosphere. Its size and symmetry are impressive, and the more you look, the more details you notice.
Next, we move on to the Bayon Temple, which is very special. Wherever you go, you are surrounded by stone faces with gentle smiles, as if they know something you don’t yet understand. At the Baphuon Temple, only Carlo climbs the steps, breathing heavily. The heat is increasing! Thankfully, Poly has brought enough water with him – unlike our single bottle – and he laughs more and more at how exhausted we look.
Ta Keo is a massive temple mountain with extremely steep steps. Carlo climbs up alone and comes back down drenched in sweat. The temple was never completed, giving it a very special, raw appearance.
Ta Prohm , the temple with the strangler figs and jungle-like atmosphere, looks like something from another film. It’s incredibly beautiful there! It’s fascinating to see how the jungle is reclaiming the walls. The huge roots look like living sculptures. Finally, we visit Banteay Kdei, which is also wonderful. It’s a little quieter there, and the beautiful courtyard has a meditative feel to it. Many parts of the temple are dilapidated, but this is what gives it its charm. We are gobsmacked. Poly teases us: “Do you want to do the big tour now?” Eh … no … After more than six hours on our feet and countless steps, we good to go to the hotel again.
Back at the hotel, we have some snacks first. Then, disaster strikes: a power cut! The air conditioning breaks down and we continue to sweat – this time in our room. In the evening, we treat ourselves to a fantastic meal at ‘WILD’. The ‘Wild Wild West’ spring rolls are absolutely amazing. It was a day for the history books!
This day was an absolute highlight. We had so much fun, explored incredible places, and enjoyed a delicious meal at the end of the day. Angkor Wat and all the surrounding temples are simply special and well worth a visit!
Day 4: Sandstone love & circus magic
The morning starts slowly. Then we take another trip to the Old Market because Carlo can’t stop thinking about the statue. It’s going to be bought!
Afterwards, we stroll through the streets for a while before treating ourselves to an early dinner at Sambo Khmer & Thai. Here, we sample our first Pad Thai – a culinary preview of the next country in a few days’ time: Thailand!
The big highlight is on the programme in the evening: Phare, the Cambodian circus. There are no animals or traditional circus acts, just a thrilling show full of artistry, dance, theatre and live music. In every scene, the performers tell a social, socio-critical, creative and touching story. It is a project that supports young people from difficult backgrounds while providing great entertainment. We are absolutely thrilled!
I’m a big fan of this circus! The show is impressive, full of emotion, acrobatics and expression. We highly recommend it – it was another highlight of our time in Siem Reap! We are thrilled!
Day 5: Bus journey with a surprise
After breakfast at the hotel, we drove to the bus station. Today, we are travelling to Phnom Penh! We had expected an easy journey, but we were treated to a real snack offensive: water, a croissant, juice, and later, even a hot meal to choose from. Not bad!
Our next surprise awaits us in Phnom Penh: our hotel is absolutely fantastic. It’s in a great location, the rooms are beautiful, the bathroom is chic and there’s a rooftop pool with a view over the city. Jackpot!
In the evening, we go to WILD again. As in Siem Reap, the food is delicious again!
Day 6: A story that gets under your skin
It’s going to be a quiet day today. We’re going to Tuol Sleng, the former S-21 prison which is now a museum about the Khmer Rouge era. The museum is located in the centre of the city. It used to be a school, then a place of horror. Our guide calmly leads us through the former classrooms. She speaks matter-of-factly yet personally, even sharing details of her own childhood under the regime. We are deeply impressed by her strength. We see the bare cells, photos of the victims, and rules hanging on the walls. It’s difficult to absorb everything, but it’s important not to suppress any of it.
To unwind, we visit the Backyard Café, where we enjoy delicious food and receive a vegan cookbook as a gift. Carlo had been before and loved it. We drink cold coconut milk, eat bread with guacamole – which Carlo accidentally oversalted completely with the screwed-on shaker – and take a deep breath.
Back at the hotel, we take a short break. Then the rain comes. For dinner, we go to Pizza 4Ps, which we know from Hanoi – the food is delicious and familiar. On the way back, we get caught in another shower. But somehow that also suits the day.
Day 7: More history & a quiet conclusion
We are about to embark on another journey back into the past. Our destination this time is the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. This time, we use an audio guide to help us make sense of what we hear. The atmosphere is oppressive and eerily silent. The mass graves, bones in glass cases and the imposing memorial stupa leave us speechless. The tranquillity of this place is in stark contrast to the events that took place here.
Back in the city, we visit the Backyard Café again, this time enjoying a vegan bolognese and a fresh bowl. Afterwards, we briefly consider visiting the Royal Palace. But the heat, the price, and our lack of enthusiasm prevail. Instead, we decide to enjoy the sunset over Phnom Penh from the rooftop pool. That’s all part of travelling.
The last two days have been characterised by the country’s terrible past. At the same time, we are impressed by the country’s resilience.
Day 8: Farewell with melancholy
Today it’s time to say goodbye. We packed up and made our way to the airport. Phnom Penh has surprised us and Cambodia has made a deep impression on us.
Although we find it hard to move on, we are also looking forward to Thailand. Next stop: Bangkok!
Cambodia blew us away completely with its temples, history, food and people. From goosebumps to sunburn, from laughter with Poly to quiet moments in historic places, this week has been intense, beautiful, challenging and moving. A part of us will always be here. We love Cambodia!
